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Independent fashion from the heart of New York City




Phoenix Art Museum Ellman Fashion Design Gallery
1625 N Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 
October 27 2018 - March 24 2019
Link to the Phoenix Ark Museum




Fashion Unraveled at Museum at FIT

Fashion Unraveled is not your typical fashion exhibition. Rather than feature pristine clothes that exemplify a theme, a time period, or a designer’s aesthetic, it explores the roles of memory and imperfection in fashion. The exhibition also highlights the aberrant beauty in flawed objects, giving precedence to garments that have been altered, left unfinished, or deconstructed. These selections underscore one elemental fact about clothing: that it is designed to be worn and has, in some cases, been worn out. 

The displayed work is a sarong that was made form lengths of organza that were stitched, folded, and wrapped around the body in a manner that wasted not even a scrap of material. Yeohlee’s non-intrusive approach to the use of fabric also extended to her frayed, unfinished hems that fan out and emphasize the gossamer quality of the fabric.

Fashion & Textile History Gallery, Museum at FIT
227 W 27th St, New York, NY 10001
May 25, 2018 – November 17, 2018
Link to The Museum at FIT








The fashion and art worlds have long benefitted from a symbiotic relationship, but since the 1980s, an influx of artistic and commercial projects have fostered a more porous interconnection. In exploration of this common ground, this installation juxtaposes a series of capes and gowns created in the mid-1990s by fashion designer Yeahlee with large-scale, paintstick screen prints created in the mid-1980s by artist Richard Serra. Since opening her house in 1981, Yeohlee's thought-provoking approach to functional, timeless clothing have made her a leader among contemporary American fashion designers. Although best known for his massive sculptural forms, Serra also makes prints and drawings that explore perceptual awareness through geometric shapes and their relationship to a space. Yeohlee and Serra are both lifelong practitioners whose deep understanding of the inherent qualities of their chosen materials underlay their working processes. Each have a direct, physical experimentation with their materials. Both follow a restricted neutral color palette and have a highly identifiable, minimalist aesthetic.


The Yeohlee designs in this installation are all virtuoso examples of her zero-waste practices. Three of the gowns were cut from just seven meters of heavy, double-faced satin. The Serra prints were made at the start of a fertile period of experimentation where he expanded conventional silkscreen processes that redefined surface structure, scale, density and depth of color. First black ink is applied to the custom-made, large-scale paper. Then, a specially prepared oil crayon block or paintstick is pulled in long stroke over the cleaned screen. This process is repeated until the lower layer of ink is consolidated with the layers of paintstick to achieve the desired saturation and surface. Although conceived independently and for different purposes, these works, shown together, provide us with new perceptions of the work of Yeahlee and Serra and bridge a connection between two of the Museum's collection areas.


Phoenix Art Museum Ellman Fashion Design Gallery
1625 N Central Ave, Phoenix, AZ 
March 17 2017 - May 29 2017
Link to The Phoenix Art Museum
CFDA review
az-lifestyle Magazine Review


YEOHLEE: FOLK COUTURE Fashion and Folk Art

American Folk Art Museum
2 Lincoln Sq on Columbus Ave and 66th St. New York, NY

January 21 2014 – April 23 2014



Click here to purchase the official exhibition publication.

Click here for a video interview with the exhibition curator.


Front Row: Chinese American Designers

Museum of Chinese in America
215 Centre Street
New York, NY 10013
April 26 2013 - December 1 2013



IMPACT: 50 Years of the CFDA
Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, NY
February 10, 2012 - April 17, 2012
Book: IMPACT 50 Years of the Council of fashion Designers of America
ISBN 978--1-4197-0231-0

Yield: Making Fashion Without Making Waste
The Dowse Art Museum
New Zealand
March 26, 2011 - June 26, 2011




AMERICAN BEAUTY: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion


Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, NY
November 6, 2009 - April 10, 2010


Click to purchase the book AMERICAN BEAUTY by Patricia Mears

Click to purchase the book YEOHLEE: WORK


YEOHLEE: Design For Now
Crow Collection of Asian Art
Dallas, TX
October 3, 2009 - January 3, 2010

Fashioning Felt
Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum
New York, NY
March 6 - September 7, 2009

SKIN+BONES: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture
Somerset House
London, UK
April 24, 2008 -August 10, 2008

Breaking the Mode: Contemporary Fashion from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art
The Indianapolis Museum of Art
Indianapolis, Indiana
March 16-June 1, 2008

blog.mode: addressing fashion
Costume Institute
Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York, NY
December 18, 2007 - April 13, 2008

The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, New York
Nov 27, 2007 - May 7, 2008

Centre for Contemporary Arts at Palazzo Strozzi
Florence, Italy
October 12, 2007- January 20, 2008

Skin + Bones: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture
The National Art Center
Tokyo, Japan
June 6, 2007 - August 13, 2007

The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, New York
May 23 - November 10, 2007

SKIN + BONES: Parallel Practices in Fashion and Architecture
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
Los Angeles, CA
November 19, 2006 - March 05, 2007

THE FASHION OF ARCHITECTURE: Constructing the Architecture of Fashion
Center for Architecture
New York, NY
January 11, 2006 - March 11, 2006

Festival of China
The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts
Washington, DC
October, 2005

The Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, New York
Oct 23rd 2001 - Jan 5th 2002

Installation and Fashion in Motion

Victoria & Albert Museum
London, England
Oct 30th - Dec 4th 2000

The Super Modern Wardrobe
London College of Fashion
London, England
Nov 2nd - Dec 6th 2000

Mutations // Mode 1960 : 2000
Galleria Museum
Fashion Museum of the City of Paris
Paris, France
March 30th - July 31st 2000

Cubism and Fashion
Costume Institute
Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York, New York
Dec 10th 1998 - March 14th 1999

China Chic: East Meets West
The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, New York
Feb 16th - Apr 24th 1999



Energetics: Clothes and Enclosures

“Clothes, Yeohlee is fond of saying, “have magic.” Yet that magic is for the designer mingled with reason and collateral with discipline and astringent practice. Not only is Yeohlee one of the most ingenious makers of clothing today, but she is one of the few practitioners of her art who has fully eschewed fashion-hyperbole to engage in a critical discourse about clothing in space, on the body, and in anthropometrics. Intellectually, Yeohlee is the new Bernard Rudofsky, offering insights into clothing as a cultural authropology. But Rudofsky’s only clothing design was scientific experiment; Yeohlee advances theory and broaches the garment not only as specimen but as beautiful, viable apparel.”  

- the late Richard Martin
 Metropolitan Museum of Art
 February 1998



 Yeohlee is thinking about clothing as a first shelter, the modular system in which one dwells even more intimately than in architecture.

For Ken Yeang T. R. Hamzah and Yeang Sdn Bhdg, the primary function of a builtform is that of shelter, providing protection against the harsh natural elements. Thus, historically climate is the single most endemic factor in our landscape, apart form geology. Socio-economic-political conditions changes as would also visual tastes. The climate-responsive building has thus a greater fit with its environmental and cultural context.

Relevant content is included in the book YEOHLEE: WORK  click to purchase.

Aedes East Gallery
Berlin, Germany
May 22nd - June 19th 1998
Netherlands Architecture Institute
Rotterdam, Netherlands
Aug 1st - Sept 6th 1999



The New Couture
Museum of the City of New York
New York, New York
Nov 20th 1984 - June 16th 1985

Yeohlee Teng/Fashion
P.S. 1
The Institute for Art and Urban Resources, Inc.
Long Island City, New York
Jan 22nd - Mar 18th 1984

Intimate Architecture: Contemporary Clothing Design
Hayden Gallery
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Cambridge, Massachusetts
May 15th - June 27th 1982


Kyoto Costume Institute
Kyoto, Japan
Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)
Los Angeles, CA
Metropolitan Museum of Art
New York, New York
The Museum at The Fashion Institute of Technology
New York, NY
Victoria and Albert Museum
London, England