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YEOHLEE

Independent fashion from the heart of New York City

YEOHLEE FALL 2020 REVIEW - WWD February 20, 2020

February 13, 2020

by Alessandra Turra

This season, everything started with fabric research for Yeohlee Teng, who presented her effortlessly chic fall collection with one-on-one appointments at her NoMad store.

The designer played with Italian and Japanese textiles to create a sense of coziness and in particular, versatility, which according to Teng, is the main trait defining the fluid and transitional state of fashion today.

Combining an “honorable schoolboy” inspiration with the “fiction of fashion,” an expression she used to criticize a certain resistance of the industry to accept change, Teng delivered a chic lineup, functional, approachable and beautifully executed.

Tactile charm stole the spotlight with the intriguing textures defining, for example, a crepe zippered jacket embellished with a cotton-ribbed lapel, which was paired with a coordinated graphic top and cotton ribbed leggings for a hyper comfortable yet polished look. Echoing school uniforms, paper cotton shorts were worn with a white cotton shirt and a reversible featherweight wool cardigan in two tones of gray. Cozy alpaca was crafted into a caramel coat peppered with tangerine details, while a wool jumpsuit offered Teng’s personal take on a workwear look.

YEOHLEE FALL 2020 REVIEW - Vogue February 20, 2020

February 13, 2020

by Liana Satenstein

Part of the joy of visiting Yeohlee Teng is seeing how she uses every bit of fabric. Even the smallest of scraps are somehow integrated in her clean and boyish designs. She’s been doing this for years; zero-waste and sustainability have been the driving forces of her company since its beginnings, long before the excess the fashion industry produces was a hot topic. This season, inspired by the British boarding school she attended with her brothers, she riffed on school uniforms. To create the pieces, she used fabric that she’s had in her stock room since the late ’90s. (She also used leftover materials from her resort 2020 collection.)

In a way, Teng has always been developing a uniform. Season to season her pieces are polished, linear, razor sharp. Beyond basics like a hand-knit sweater vest and and flared pants, there were some fantastic oddball pieces for fall. One standout was an elongated jacket that skimmed the knees, which lengthened the silhouette in a monastic way. Another quirky piece was a wool check jacquard holster belt. It came with a matching jacket and was made to be accessible from the pockets of the coat. (In other words, a woman could slip her hands through the jacket pockets and into the holster’s pockets.) She called it the “pickpocket’s puzzle.” Funky, cool, and, yes, zero-waste.

YEOHLEE SPRING 2020 REVIEW - WWD February 20, 2020

September 11, 2019

by Alessandra Turra

Yeohlee Teng is one of those almost extinct creatures in the fashion industry: a designer who is still passionate about construction, lines and fabrics. She still believes that her creations are the ultimate medium to express her fashion message. In her case, it’s a clear, powerful dispatch, ultimately telegraphed with essentiality, purity and control.

Working a black and white color palette, Teng played with cuts and geometric shapes to create versatile, effortlessly chic pieces, mostly crafted from Italian and Japanese cottons.

Details made the difference in her designs, which were very simple at first sight, yet highly complex when analyzed closely. They included daywear staples with a twist, such as color-blocked frocks that can be worn in multiple ways; and a sporty-chic hooded jacket with drawstrings worn with a pinstriped dress and matching pants that had a slightly sculptural silhouette that was achieved through bias cuts.

The collection also offered elegant and discreet cocktail options, including a V-neck mini dress with the eye-catching shoulders highlighted by black and white graphic colorblocking, as well as a jumpsuit, which looked just pretty in its sophisticated elegance. 

YEOHLEE SPRING 2020 REVIEW - Vogue February 20, 2020

September 11, 2019

by Liana Satenstein

When I arrived at Yeohlee Teng’s studios on West 29th Street today, she joked that she was the “Queen of Scraps.” It goes without saying that Teng creates her collections using zero waste. She’s been doing this for years, long before sustainability became a buzzword in the conversation about how wasteful fashion can get. Teng is so skilled at using all fabrics that her work has been taught in courses at fashion schools and exhibited in museums. If you look at any Yeohlee collection, you’re probably looking at materials the designer has used from her beginnings in the early ’80s. That’s older than most of these young downtown folks creating clothes now.

That said, Teng really knows how to make the most out of what she has, and it should be both studied and appreciated. There are lots of hands-on elements in her work, and many of the looks can be adjusted and worn different ways. Sometimes, when designers create hands-on looks, it feels complicated, and I wonder if the wearer even understands how to alter the pieces themselves. Teng makes it easy. Among her signature boyish silhouettes—loose striped pants and breathy tops in black and white—a favorite here was a “flip” tank. It was made from slate blue linen with a marsupial pouch in waxy gray linen. The pouch flipped not only over the front of the body but also behind the body. Teng mentioned she was thinking about putting a zipper on it to make it like a fanny pack (or backpack!). It transformed the groovy-sounding idea of “conceptual” into something that was actually both wearable and useable. You could put your wallet and keys in there. Maybe even a really small baby. The tank makes Teng’s philosophy about using everything come to life. Plus, it’s really cool to look at.

YEOHLEE FALL 2019 REVIEW - WWD October 14, 2019

February 1, 2019

by Andrew Shang

“Yeohlee throws herself a challenge,” the designer said of her namesake fall collection during a preview at her store. Never mind the mathematical or geometric undertones of her deceptively minimalist designs. She was speaking to the season’s sustainable arc, where she dived into years worth of archival fabric and inventory to create a wholly upcycled range.

Sustainability is arguably the most widely discussed issue facing the fashion industry today, and it’s become an umbrella term for a range of good practices. For Yeohlee Teng, it means endurance, and being able to reinvent old fabrics for the modern day. There were a host of standouts, including a neon day-glo fabric from 2003 cut into an athletic-leaning jacket and joggers, plum melange silk taffeta from 2008 rendered into languid pants cut on the bias, and silk duchess satin from the Nineties reimagined into a voluminous yet lightweight baseball jacket that maintained a great ballooning shape.

Cohesion was Teng’s biggest challenge, and she managed to unify looks with a sculptural and modernist hand that held a gender-ambiguous thread. Outerwear highlighted these elements best, and included a wide-neck coat with high-low hem that was actually one width of square fabric, and a regal black-and-silver duchess satin jacket with box sleeves that would serve as a great proposition for relaxed evening attire. Other inventive evening looks included a “memory” dress that took on different imprints when touched, and a chic dress featuring a sculpted built-in wrap from a 2016 graphic printed jacquard.


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