May 01, 2008
Yeohlee's Spring 2008 collection was inspired by the mission architecture of the American Southwest, primarily the churches of New Mexico. The starkness of their blocky white-washed adobe shapes, against the mutable changing light of the brilliant desert sky, informed her choice of colors, fabrics, and many variations of the simplest of geometric forms-the square box. The color palette on the runway transitions from light to dark, beginning with white, moving through a range of pale neutrals, on to black-and-white then inky midnight, before concluding with silvery greys. Evident throughout is the presence of luminosity. Quicksilver satin-faced linens, shimmering platinum silks, and mica-flecked navy organza are foils for smoky matte crepes and chiffons. Yeohlee's vocabulary of arcs and ellipses are refined and combined with experimentations on crafting a box from cloth. Numerous garments are constructed from these four-sided, building block foundations including: a raw-edged linen silk shapeshifter (#09) evoking the indigenous shape of native Southwestern costume; a fluid georgette dress (#06) grazes the body, disguising its architectonic hemline; a satin high-waisted skirt rises from its boxy base (#24); and raincoats in white (#03) and midnight (#18) shield the wearer in a balanced geometric cocoon.