February 12, 2018
by Liana Satenstein
Yeohlee Teng has been working with zero and minimal waste since the beginning of her career. For Fall 2018, she used a total of just nine fabrics (an important point, she noted.) The straightforwardness worked well with Teng’s polished tailoring, which typically cuts a boyish figure. It was inspired by a mélange of influences, including samurais, ninjas, concubines, and amahs—women (or girls) responsible for taking care of families and their homes. On the more traditional front, a standout included a denim suit with a mandarin collar. Another mandarin collar piece was meticulously crafted, made out of a white jacquard jacket that appeared pin-poked (aptly named Starbrite dots) and styled with a pair of trousers. (Starbrite dots also appeared on a cool loose white dress with oversize pockets outlined with black piping that boasted an elevated workwear feel.)
There was a print in the mix, titled Nitesky. It was reminiscent of the eerie shadows of forests when used on a pair of kicky pants, which, when worn with a rough-edge hooded vest, looked like slick postapocalyptic-wear. While many of the pieces followed the label’s expected mannish silhouettes, the feminine looks were the most exquisite by far, such as the satin numbers. In one long and linear getup, the satin zigzag pants, a lustrous satin matching jacket, and a slinky black ribbon tank all seemed to float into one another. Minimal waste never looked so pretty.