October 11, 2003
Fall 2003 is inspired by the Arts & Crafts movement, particularly the works of architects Bernard Maybeck and Greene & Greene. Much like the architects of that era, Yeohlee's work explores the intrinsic character of the materials she uses, here cloth as opposed to wood, tiles and concrete. In each case attention is paid to grain lines, the joints and seams and how they are detailed. There is a shared awareness of the environment that surrounds the work. Each textile in this collection was selected to compliment or lend contrast to the others, for example the black Man's coat in look 5 is constructed out of a structured bonded material, wool on the face and fleece against the body. The coat is shown with fluid underpinnings, a Worker shirt with a flat front pull on pant that is of a machine washable micro fiber in a soft navy blue. Look 4 is in a double faced woven wool that has a contrast in color and weight. The fabric is navy on one side and brown on the other. While the jacket and hooded vest are both double faced, the pants are constructed with a single ply of the fabric that has been split. The center front panel was cut an inch too short on the pale putty zibeline dress in look 31. It was not rejected as a mistake and re cut. Instead it became a design detail in the tradition of Arts & Crafts where beauty is found in imperfection.