May 01, 2005
"There is no room for chance in Yeohlee's clothes. They read as complex mathematical equations - precise, logical and balanced. By the repetition of design motifs her clothes convey a sense of order and structure, creating an aesthetic that is more akin to industrial design than to fashion. Yet they reveal a deep empathy with the modern woman. Their rhythm is that of the street and the subway - 'non-places' that reflect and reveal the excesses and exigencies of city life." - Andrew Bolton, Associate Curator of the Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of ArtYEOHLEE's Spring 2005 collection has an urban and nomadic feel to it. Repetition of design motifs, such as circles, rectangles, squares and triangles recall the replication of architectural ornaments such as tiles, columns and flagstones. Patterned fabrics are reminiscent of tiling. Couture fabrics respond to our yearnings for authenticity; high-tech fabrics acknowledge our practical needs as well as fashion's advancement. Vivid graffiti-like colors hint at a sartorial manifestation of a Basquiat painting. YEOHLEE's favorite fabric of the season is a linen/polyurethane that ages with the wearer; every crease representing a memory and an experience. Clean lines and simple shapes offer wearers an easy kind of camouflage. There are sarongs that allow you to go from the gym to the opera. Metallic tops and ladder scarves constructed from strips of fabrics that are staggered to give a contrast of steely softness. YEOHLEE returns to a cherished detail - holster pockets - perfect for storing the accoutrements of the city/subway traveler from your metrocard to a digital camera. There are many aspects and stories in YEOHLEE's Spring 2005 collection; it entwines the disparate experiences of the city dweller and reflects upon the different personas of the women in the show who have been a unique source of inspiration.