October 01, 2007
According to architectural historian Ignasi de Sola-Morales I Rubio, the hallmarks of Antoni Gaudí's work were based on "a desire to go back to basics" and to "create architecture based on the criteria of function." Architecture has been a consistent source of inspiration for Yeohlee, a designer celebrated for her deceptively simple, highly functional and beautifully constructed clothing. This season Yeohlee references Antoni Gaudí, a structural genius who created undulating forms that look so organic and free and yet were constructed with the utmost discipline. By choosing an array of textural materials such as felted woolens, membrane-like cotton, featherweight silk organdy woven with undulating velvet stripes and metallic taffetas embroidered with a granular rice pattern, Yeohlee's volumetric forms possess three dimensionality with little rigidity. The garments are further enhanced with a subtle color palette of mostly black, white and grey. Yeohlee's wool jackets for day, look 1 in felted grey and look 9 in wool angora double face black and white, are ovoid in shape. These jackets envelope the wearer and can be individually adjusted to hang loosely around the shoulders or pulled up to become collars or hoods. A coatdress of grey wool, look 3, and an evening dress in mercury lamé, look 28, are slim and narrow in the front and billow in the back like bellows. They achieve their shapes from vertically cut and elongated ellipses. The cream double-faced wool jacket, look 8, cut with a canted waistline has peplums that are made from two crescents. Yeohlee's shapes come from a minimal number of cuts and the reliance on each fabric's inherent structural properties. The complex forms belie the simplicity of the patterns, which in turn belie the simplicity of each cut.